TILBA BIKESTOP

This weekend sees Jenny and I riding south, and as we approach Batemans Bay, I am careful not to exceed the

sign posted speed limits that seem to vary constantly. Although I have been lucky riding on this road, I have seen

a lot of bikes being booked on this section of the highway.

Anyone who rides through this area needs to be aware that although the Eurobodalla Shire appears to be a

relatively small and sleepy council area, it is not always so.

The Eurobodalla Council stretches for over 100kms, from East Lynne in the north to just past Tilba in the south,

and has a population of about 35,000 people.

This beautiful part of the NSW south coast is a very popular tourist destination, and the population stretches to

more than 120,000 during the peak season, and has significant shoulders lasting a number of months on either side.

The proximity to Canberra also means that there are large influxes of people on most weekends as well, so be

careful as you ride through the area. It may feel like a sleepy part of the country, but the roads are full of motorists,

all in unfamiliar territory.

Heading south from Batemans Bay my preferred route is along the highway. The road is good and the corners are

smooth as I wind through the hills, but I notice that the speed limits change frequently.

The only alternative route is to wind down the coast through the sprawling suburbs, rejoining the highway at 

Moruya. From Moruya the Princes Highway is the only sealed road south, but the road is great and before I

know it, I begin to wind my way into Narooma.

It is always a stunning sight, riding down towards the long bridge on the way into town. Wagonga Inlet

is wide and the shades of blue green of the water change continually.

As I ride through town, it is tempting to stop at one of the two pubs, both have a few bikes outside,

but today I am heading another 15 kms further south to visit a small country pub that offers terrific service

and is full of motorcycle friendly people.

After leaving Narooma, the road winds gently through the National Park crossing a few coastal lakes,

a part of the beauty of this area.Reaching the largest of these lakes, Corunna, I am reminded that I should turn off

at the top of the hill and ride to the east for a kilometre or so, where I can park right at the edge of the ocean and

gaze out at Montague Island.

This is a beautiful spot, just off the highway, and outside of peak holiday times it is exceptionally quiet.

At this time of the year, Mystery Bay is just a small sleepy coastal village, and if you are that way inclined,

there is a great primitive camping ground right at the waters edge.

In winter it is unlikely that you will find any other campers there, and I strongly recommend riding up to

the top of the cliff to unroll your swag amongst the spotted gums.

From there, you will see the sun rise over the ocean just to the right of the island, and you will wonder how come

you never knew this place existed.

But, I am heading a further 5 kms south for the night, so I walk along the beach a little with Jenny the dog, and

then return to the bike and cruise back to the highway.

The first few kms appear to have been upgraded lately, and is smooth and easy riding.

The 80 km/h speed signs indicate that I am approaching Victoria Creek, a highway black spot that has claimed

a number of lives over the past few years.

The surface is ok and the corners feel good and it is very easy to feel safe as I power through this section of the

Princes Highway, but I watch out for the wet patches and the oncoming traffic, which often seems to drift across

the yellow lines towards me.

The climb out of Victoria Creek is superb, with spectacular views of lush farm land and the green rolling hills

leading down to the ocean.

As I round the right hand sweeper at the top of the hill I am met by the sight of the fabulous 'Little Drom', a

steep rocky outcrop that signposts my arrival at Tilba.

Before I know it, I am leaning into a left hand sweeper and the road widens allowing for the return of the

100 km/h speed limit. At this point the road invites me to open the throttle a little, so that I can overtake the

traffic that has built up in front of me as I came through Victoria Creek, but if I do, I will ride right past one

of the great Australian BikeStops, so I back off.

Turning off the highway at this point takes me the few hundred metres down into Central Tilba.

This small tourist village is straight out of the early 1900s and is a great place to stop.

Although Tilba is a relatively small village and is surrounded by the obligatory small hobby farms, the

proportion of bike riders around here is very high.

As I ride into the main (and only) street, I see their bikes parked outside the couple of coffee shops. 

Out the front of the Tilba BikeStop - the famous Dromedary Hotel, there is an impressive line up

of touring and sports bikes, their riders already enjoying the great atmosphere on the verandah.  

The sports bikes belong to about half the riders and they have stopped for lunch,